SX 900 Pounding the keys to be avoided.

[barwonfan]

I don't, but apparently some folk do. I read an interesting comment on the PSR Tutorial Forum to-day written by Travellin Easy. He also mentions tar from cigarette smoke.

[Hugh-AR]

First, watch the beginning of this video to see what Travelin' Easy from the PSR Tutorial Forum is commenting about .. namely notes on the PSR-SX900 and 700 that do not 'sound' when played. (I do not recommend that you dismantle your keyboard in the way he describes in order to fix it!)

YAMAHA PSR-SX900-PSR-SX700 repairing dead keys.



Here is the comment Travelin' Easy made:

I personally, have never had to replace the keypads in any Yamaha arranger keyboard that I have owned in more than 4 decades. Now, I have replaced them for other Yamaha owners, and in nearly every instance, other than 2, the dead keys were the result of the player pounding on the keys as if he or she were playing a piano - not an arranger keyboard, which resulted in destruction of the pads - they pounded on the keys. The other two instances were the result of performing in smoke filled bars, which coated the contacts with cigarette smoke tar.

Now ...

There is a complete misunderstanding of how a 'pianist' plays a keyboard. The assumption is that as a pianist has to strike a key fairly hard in order for the 'hammer' to strike the strings (in case you hadn't thought about it before, a piano is a 'mechanical' instrument) he/she would do the same when playing a keyboard. Come on! We're not stupid! A keyboard does not have a hammer that you have to 'pound' in order to get it to strike the string and sound. When I play my keyboard 'piano' style, what I mean is that I play a note 'at speed' (but gently, not hammering it) .. and then immediately lifting my finger off the note before playing the next one (ie. playing the notes staccato style). I play this way for all 'percussive' instruments.

The other technique for playing notes on a keyboard (and I would do it this way for playing eg. a trombone) is to press a note slowly and hold it down .. move to the next note and then release the one you are holding down. This gives a 'smoother' movement of the melody. A 'percussive' instrument does not lend itself to playing this way!

By the way, the volume of a piano note depends on the speed at which you play the note, not on how hard you hit it (although you could be forgiven if you thought these two episodes were synonymous).

Hugh

[dentyr]

There are a few reasons why the pads get damaged. One is that pianists will generally hit the keys when the touch is on to get the sound. Many voices are very quiet when the touch is on so press or push harder. Next is the after touch. Keep pushing and eventually you may get right through the pads. I am very reluctant to allow a pianist to touch my Tyros.

The assumption is that as a pianist has to strike a key fairly hard in order for the 'hammer' to strike the strings ...

This may be true but it still happens.
I never have the touch on as I play legato and I often hold notes adding other notes to the right hand.

If you plan to dismantle your keyboard (heaven forbid) then the things that you need are a good marker pen to mark the bits, and a camera to photograph every move. Remember that the joints are soldered and are susceptible to damage and repairing those joints is not an easy job for an amateur. NEVER touch the speakers in the keyboard. You may not notice it but your fingers are greasy and could have an impact on the sounds. There are circuit boards up near the touch screen so don’t touch them.
I have seen the inside of a Tyros and I have installed the extended memory. Absolutely not for the feint hearted.
Having written that, it is your keyboard so it is up to you; it is not an easy job.

Regards, Den.

[dentyr]

Further to my previous post. If you do decide to attack any of your electronic equipment then a magnetic screwdriver is not enough. Put a piece of blu-tak on the end of the screwdriver (the part that goes into the screw slots) so the screw will stick to it – you hope. Then take a piece of paper, A4 size, and put a 6mm hole in it so that you can cover the area where the screw is to come out. When (not if) the screw drops it will be on the paper and not inside the electronics. If the screw does drop inside it is very difficult to retrieve it and you must get it out or things will go wrong.
If perchance you do decide to use a magnetic screwdriver then make sure that you don’t allow it to interfere with some of the electronic bits. Some of the “bits” on the motherboards are very sensitive.
Experiences is something you need when things go awry.
Regards, Den.